I traveled for three days on a section of the Interoceanic Highway from the Pacific Coast of Peru to the Brazilian Amazon. The highway continues to São Paulo, Brazil, over 3,900 miles away. The highway spans three time zones, and is the first to cross the entire continent of South America. Many have called it one of the greatest construction projects in Latin America since the Panama Canal. Since its completion, the Interoceanic has raised Peru’s GDP by 1.5% a year. However, the highway has had many detrimental impacts on the local people and environments. The remote Peruvian Amazon was once five to seven days from Cusco Peru by truck. But now the trip takes less than 9 hours. Illegal gold mining and logging has increased exponentially in the last 5 years and residents of Puerto Maldonado, a dusty, frontier boom town, have expressed their concern about the benefits the highway promised to bring.
I asked Malena, a women who worked at the Tarapoto Hostel how the Interoceanic has changed the town. “It hasn’t brought more jobs, it’s actually taken them away,” she replied. “Miners and other people like that just come here, take everything away, and destroy the nature we have here,” Malena added. “The highway has also brought in a lot more delinquency and crime.”
The impact of the highway is being felt especially hard in the remote regions of the Amazon where 15 tribes have been displaced. The Interoceanic now runs through the heart of their homeland, bringing diseases, disrupting wildlife habitat, and ruining their sustainable lifestyle. The Amazon, one of the worlds great ecosystems, is still rich and plentiful, but for how much longer will it remain?
An hour outside of Cusco, the Interoceanic Highways begins its climb over the Andes.
The highway passes through indigenous villages where over 90% of the population still speaks Quechua.
At 15,500 ft above sea level, the pass between Cusco and Puerto Maldonado, deep in the Peruvian Amazon, is one of the highest paved roads in the worlds.
The Highway takes a dramatic turn after reaching the pass, suddenly plunging over 13,000 feet in the span of a few hours.
Brasiléia, located on the border with Bolivia, was in the midst of an intense Dengue and Chikungunya outbreak. City officials handed out pamphlets on the highway through town.
Brasiléia has also been a major transit route for Haitian refugees after the earthquake there in 2010. 20,000 Haitians have already passed through the town, with many more arriving every day. Most leave Haiti for Colombia or Ecuador, passing through the Amazon, Brasiléia, and on to São Paulo, the economic capital of Latin America. A thousand Haitians still reside in a building built for 200 in Brasiléia.
Many parts of Acre, a large Amazonian state in far northwestern Brazil, has been affected greatly by logging interests.
Since 1978 over 289,000 square miles of Amazonian rainforest have been cut down. Since the year 2000, 75% of that has been for cattle ranching. Cattle ranching and soy represent the largest threats today to the Amazon.
Between Brasiléia and Rio Branco, we stopped for gas in Xapuri. This was the birthplace of Chico Mendes, the famous rubber tapper and environmental activist who was murdered by ranchers in 1988. Chico Mendes once said, “At first I thought I was fighting to save rubber trees, then I thought I was fighting to save the Amazon rainforest. Now I realise I am fighting for humanity.”
Dusk on the Acre River, in Rio Branco, a sleepy city in the heart of the rich Amazonian rainforest. Rio Branco sprang up out of the jungle less than a hundred years ago as a rubber tapping outpost.
Born and raised in San Francisco, Walker then majored in International Relations and Chinese at the New School University in NYC. He began traveling during a high school exchange to Argentina, and hasn’t stopped since. Walker has always sought out the more unusual and off the beaten path locations and is combining his love for photography and travel to kickstart a career as a journalist, striving to redefine the profession in rapidly changing world.
Take Others Down the Road Less Traveled