Everyone from Pablo Neruda to bohemian backpackers have fallen in love with Valparaíso’s rough and tumble charms. Valparaíso is a port town dripping in maritime history and culture. The port played a major role in the 19th century, when ships traveling up the Pacific Coast to California during the Gold Rush would stop on their way from the Atlantic. Valparaiso fell into decline after the construction of the Panama Canal, and has suffered high levels of poverty since. However, what remains is a spectacular labyrinth of cobble stoned alleyways climbing over a series of steep hills and canyons. Artists, poets and writers have lived in Valparaíso for a long time, adding to the sense of creativity which seems to be found around every corner.
As dusk falls, Valparaíso’s downtown transforms into a dilapidated urban feast for the eyes.
A group of semi inebriated friends stop for their portrait. Playing up to its role as a port city, Valparaíso has a reputation for wild parties and rowdy bars.
Valparaiso’s architecture is world renown for it’s brightly colored wood houses that cling precariously to hillsides.
The art filled Paseo Bavestrello.
Valparaíso’s funicular elevators attest to a time of greatness in this cities history. The city once had 30 of them, today only around five are in operation. These elevators, some which function more like a cable car, help local residents summit the top of the cities many steep hills.
An ascensor operator waiting for passengers.
Ascensor El Peral, one of the last remaining funicular elevators left in the city.
The narrow streets of the more upscale Cerro Concepcion area. Most residents distinguish their neighborhood by which hill they live on.
Mercado Cardonal.
This building is home to the El Mercurio newspaper. The newspaper was started in 1827 in Valparaíso, and is the oldest Spanish language newspaper still in circulation today.
Residents playing a game of Truco.
During the 19th Century, Valparaíso was a hub for many English and German immigrants. On Cerro Concepción, one of the cities more colorful and artistic areas, is the German Lutheran Church.
Photographing of the chaotic streets of El Plano, taken by Alfredo Rivera
Over a hundred years old, Bar La Playa transports any visitor to a different time in Valparaíso’s history. One of the most character filled bars I’ve ever seen. One hopes that bar’s like this can be preserved.
La Playa also serves up Paila marina, a traditional Chilean seafood soup served in a earthenware bowl with claim, mussels, eel, shrimp, paprika, parsley and lime.
Valparaíso is unlike any city I’ve ever seen in the world. Some say the closest comparison would be San Francisco. Whatever you way you want to look at it, Valparaíso is certainly lives up to it’s name, La Joya del Pacífico, the Jewel of the Pacific.
Born and raised in San Francisco, Walker then majored in International Relations and Chinese at the New School University in NYC. He began traveling during a high school exchange to Argentina, and hasn’t stopped since. Walker has always sought out the more unusual and off the beaten path locations and is combining his love for photography and travel to kickstart a career as a journalist, striving to redefine the profession in rapidly changing world.
This year we went back to Rio de Janeiro to document the beautiful chaos of the world’s most marvelous city.
This series, Carnival: The Heartbeat of Rio, covers the alternative side of Carnival, featuring exclusive access to the Sambódromo and include interviews with dancers, journalist and the people who make carnival happen.
Introduction
Pedra do Sal and Porto Maravilha – Episode 1
In this episode we visit the cultural and historical monument of Pedra do Sal to enjoy the free samba and good vibes. Then we explore how the area around it is changing due to the massive Porto Maravilha revitalization project.
Raquel’s Story – Episode 2
For Raquel, Carnival is about transforming pain into joy and washing Rio with love and consciousness. Follow her as she prepares and performs at Boitatá.
Orqestra Voadora – Episode 3
Witness the the vibrant and trippy side of Rio’s Carnival at Bloco Orquestra Voadora.
Southern Chile is simply stunning. Nestled between the snowcapped volcanos and the Pacific Ocean, this region of South America is a paradise for lovers of the great outdoors. One of the best places to appreciate what this region has to offer is the El Cañi Sanctuary, a 1,500 acre reserve containing some of the oldest trees in the world, as well as spectacular trekking with views of the surrounding volcanoes. We spent three days camping and trekking here, sleeping under the night skies and appreciating the best of nature.
Hiking through bamboo, Araucaria and Coihue trees.
Coihue trees, also known as Nothofagus dombeyi.
El Cañi’s highest summit covered in Araucaria trees.
Overlooking most of the sanctuary, with Araucaria trees in the foreground and Volcán Lanín in the background.
Overlooking Lago Villarrica and the town of Pucon.
Drinking a warm mate to stay warm as the sunsets and the cold sinks in.
Born and raised in San Francisco, Walker then majored in International Relations and Chinese at the New School University in NYC. He began traveling during a high school exchange to Argentina, and hasn’t stopped since. Walker has always sought out the more unusual and off the beaten path locations and is combining his love for photography and travel to kickstart a career as a journalist, striving to redefine the profession in rapidly changing world.
Santiago has come a long way in the last 25 years. It was once considered a rather drab, conservative city, known more for its dictatorial oppression and smog than anything else. Today, however, the Chilean capital is in the midst of a renaissance. On sunny summer afternoons, Santiago’s parks attract musicians, joggers, painters, and tourists.
Santiago is a city of diverse neighborhoods. There is Barrio Brasil and Barrio Yungay, two bohemian neighborhoods west of downtown where improv Salsa classes take place on the art covered streets. East of downtown is Barrio Lastarria, an upscale neighborhood full of narrow streets, small apartments, classy restaurants and bars and a magnificent hill, Cerro Santa Lucia, will views of downtown. And the list of incredible neighborhoods keeps going on, from artsy and gritty to historical and low key, Santiago has it all.
Most residents of Santiago are shocked when a foreigner actually likes their city (local opinion is that Santiago is a necessary evil, a place you must come to make money, but not a place to enjoy). With easy weekend trips to the Pacific or the snowcapped Andes, it’s easy to see why Santiago is becoming one of Latin America’s hottest cities.
One of the great things to do in Santiago is to ride to the top of Cerro San Cristobal at sunset. From the summit there are incredible views of the entire city.
Mote con huesillo is a classic Chilean drink consisting of fresh peaches and cooked husked wheat soaked in a sweet sugar nectar. It quenches your thirst and also fills you up, it’s one of the best drinks in South America.
Only a hour from Santiago, Cajón del Maipo is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of Chilean capital. The joy of Santiago is being able to ski the Andes, surf the Pacific, and party the night away all in the same weekend.
Rap battles popping up in Santiago’s streets at night.
A hole in the wall restaurant in Barrio Brasil.
Murals at the Centro Gabriela Mistral, a recently renovated cultural center.
Emporio La Rosa, a great Santiago icecream shop tha serves up unusual flavors such as honey from the Ulmo tree, which has a buttery taste of vanilla and caramel toffee. Every flavor is to die for.
Santiago’s underground metro is one of the best and most extensive in Latin America.
La Piojera is one of Santiago’s oldest dive bars. Order a Terremoto, literally translated as an earthquake because it will knock you to the floor. It is made with white wine, Fernet, bitters, grenadine and a large scoop of pineapple ice-cream.
Some just chose a beer.
At nearly 1,000 ft, the Gran Torre Santiago is the tallest building in Latin America. Looking somewhat out of place on the skyline, many of the residents refer to it as the Sauron Tower.
Santiago’s Mercado Central is intoxicating market where fresh fish are brought in every morning from the Chilean coast. Santiago’s culinary scene has exploded in recent years, with new restaurants reinventing the once conservative gastronomic scene.
North of the Mercado Central is Mercado La Vega, a bustling place that is less touristy and more real than the central market.
A local merchant in La Vega reminiscing fondling of older days “when the government used to care about us”.
Inside the Museo de Bellas Artes or the Chilean National Museum of Fine Arts, which was built in 1880, making it one of the oldest museums in South America.
Light show inside cutting edge Museo de Arte Contemporaneo.
Bordering Barrio Lastarria, Bellas Artes and Centro is the wonderful Parque Forestal.
Views of the 20,000 ft snowcapped Andes from Mount Manquehue.
Overlooking Santiago from Mt Manquehue. Santiago has a little over 7 million people in the metropolitan area, making it one of the most important and largest cities in Latin America.
Back in 2007 I did a high school exchange to Santiago, Chile. Alfredo, the guy I stayed with, later came to stay with me in California for three months. Eight years later I came back to visit him, getting to re-learn Santiago after so many years. We both agreed that the high school exchange was one of the best things we’ve ever done in our lives.
Lima is intimidating at first glance. It’s gigantic, noisy, and crowded; understandably most travelers want to leave the second they arrive. But if you know where to go and what to see, Lima can be one of South America’s best kept secrets. Let Breaking Borders take you through our top 5 favorite neighborhoods of Lima.
#5 Pueblo Libre
Pueblo Libre’s backstreets at night.
Pueblo Libre is an up and coming middle class neighborhood located a few miles west of downtown. The neighborhood is centered around Plaza Bolivar, with numerous lively bars and restaurants around it. A Limeño classic is Antigua Taberna Queirolo, a 135 year old bar that’s famous for it’s pisco sour with ginger ale and it’s old world charms. This is a great neighborhood for a night out on the town with Peru’s bohemian middle class. The famous Museo Larco and the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, both featuring pre-Columbian art and artifacts, are located in the neighborhood as well.
#4 La Victoria
Classic Ceviche from Barra Cevichera Jose y Juanita in La Victoria made with raw corvina (sea bass) marinated in key lime and served with corn and sweet potato.
At first glance, La Victoria seems sketchy and run down, but give it a chance and you can find some truly authentic Limeño experiences here. La Victoria is one of the easiest places in Lima to get inexpensive ceviche. In the blocks surrounding the massive Polvos Azules market, street stands serve up some of the most delicious ceviche for as little as $3 USD. A man named Jose has upgraded his street cart to a restaurant, turning a rough corner of La Victoria into a foodie mecca. Barra Cevichera Jose y Juanita offers some of the freshest and spiciest food at bargain prices, it’s a must. Also located in La Victoria is Gamarra, a giant section of the city that has been turned into an open air market. Play it safe in La Victoria and you might find yourself returning again and again.
#3 Miraflores
Miraflores is one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Lima, and is filled with an array of great restaurants, bookstores and ocean views.
Miraflores is the most touristy neighborhood in Lima. It’s a nondescript, upscale shopping district. With that being said there are some great things to see and do. No lunch in Miraflores is complete until you’ve eaten at El Enano, a Miami style outdoor sandwich shop which serves up incredible toasted Chicharrón sandwiches with a jar of fresh juice. Chicharrón sandwiches are made with chunks of fried pork shoulder, red onions, and slices of sweet potato with a Peruvian salsa on a crispy french roll. La Lucha Sanguicheria right next to Plaza Kennedy also serves up a mean Chicharrón sandwich. The sweet chicha morada drink is a great compliment. Chicha morada is a traditional Peruvian drink made from blue corn with pineapple, cinnamon, clove, and sugar. Monolo’s is a Miraflores classic, where old men discuss life and politics over espressos and warm, dulce de leche filled churros. A few blocks away is El Virrey, a modern bookstore that would be right at home on Rodeo Drive, where you could easily spend an afternoon browsing over books. Ultimately, Miraflores is about the Pacific Ocean. Spend some time strolling along the cliff banks at sunset and you might begin to consider moving to Lima.
The crispy,sugary churros comes in three flavors, manjar blanco, chocolate and crema pastelera. They are all delicious, so get all three!
#2 Centro/Barrio Chino
Lima’s Plaza de Armas lit up at night. Many of the buildings surrounding the plaza were built over 400 years ago during the rule of the Spanish.
Centro is the beating heart of old Lima. While many of the big businesses fled to Miraflores decades ago, Centro has an energy unmatched anywhere in the city. Plaza de Armas and Plaza San Martin anchor Centro, with the former containing government buildings, beautiful architecture and plenty of history. Be sure to poke your head inside Galería Municipal de Arte Pancho Fierro for cutting edge contemporary art and photography exhibitions highlighting local Limeño artists, great stuff. Following Lima’s main pedestrian street, Jiron de la Union, you end up in Plaza San Martin, a Parisian style plaza where political rallies usually taking place. Many say the famous pisco sour was invented at El Bolivarcito, it would be a shame to miss it.
The backstreets of Centro come alive with traditional costumes and contemporary graffiti.
However, the most interesting area of Centro is Quilca, a long street with old school bars, graffiti covered walls, underground punk venues and character-filled record shops and more radical bookstores than you can count. Start off your Quilca adventure with a drink and some food at Bar Queirolo, a place where college students and political activists rub shoulders and discuss the worlds problems. In a somewhat conservative city, Quillca shows Lima’s more radical and underground side. Another part of Centro worth visiting is Barrio Chino, Lima’s 170 year old Chinatown.
#1 Barranco
Street art adorns the walls of Barranco.
Ah, Barrnaco! This is one of the coolest neighborhoods not only in Peru, but in all of South America. Once home to the famous Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa, Barranco is a wonderful neighborhood full of cobblestoned streets, beautiful ocean views, and sophisticated restaurants experimenting with Peru’s new gastronomic boom. Barranco is a little slice of the Mediterranean in the heart of Lima, No trip to Peru would be complete without spending a day and night here. Start off the morning at Bisettis, a cool cafe that wouldn’t be out of place in the Mission District or Williamsburg. Have lunch at El Chinito, quite possibly the best Chicharrón sandwich shop in Lima. For dinner try Burrito Bar, a British owned Mexican restaurant which serves up tasty tacos and burritos; it’s surprisingly delicious. However, if you’ve come to Peru to spend some money on food, your money would be very well spent in one of the more upscale restaurants. To finish the night off head to Ayahuasca Bar, which was once a Barranco mansion and now has been turned into a labyrinth of different bars and lounges, with each room out-styling the next. This is where Lima’s rich and fabulous come to play, and a night out here is guaranteed to be a good time. Try one of the Ayahusca sours, which contain mashed coca leaves from the high Andes mixed with tropical fruits from the Amazon.
Ayahuasca is an upscale bar in an old converted mansion in Barranco.
Born and raised in San Francisco, Walker then majored in International Relations and Chinese at the New School University in NYC. He began traveling during a high school exchange to Argentina, and hasn’t stopped since. Walker has always sought out the more unusual and off the beaten path locations and is combining his love for photography and travel to kickstart a career as a journalist, striving to redefine the profession in rapidly changing world.
Born and raised in San Francisco, Walker then majored in International Relations and Chinese at the New School University in NYC. He began traveling during a high school exchange to Argentina, and hasn’t stopped since. Walker has always sought out the more unusual and off the beaten path locations and is combining his love for photography and travel to kickstart a career as a journalist, striving to redefine the profession in rapidly changing world.
